The Untersberg — the sleeping emperor's mountain

OVERVIEW

The Untersberg is the northernmost massif of the Berchtesgaden Alps, straddling the border between Berchtesgaden in Germany and Salzburg in Austria; about two-thirds lies in Germany, including the highest peak, the Berchtesgaden Hochthron (1,973 m), while the steep northern edge above Salzburg is Austrian. It is the 'lopsided peak' at the start and end of The Sound of Music.

HISTORY

An Augustinian of Berchtesgaden, Eberwein, made the first recorded ascent in the first half of the 12th century; a deed of the Salzburg archbishops calls it 'Vndarnsperch' (noon mountain) in 1306. Its limestone holds more than 400 explored caves, including the Schellenberg Ice Cave and the Riesending, at 1,148 m deep and 19.5 km long the largest known cave in Germany. Its marble faces Salzburg Cathedral. The Untersbergbahn cable car, opened in 1961, climbs from St Leonhard to the Geiereck at 1,776 m.

REPORTED ACTIVITY

In a popular 'king asleep in the mountain' legend, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa sleeps inside the Untersberg at a round table, his beard grown twice around it; when it has grown round three times the world will end — or when he leaves the mountain, the last great battle of humankind will be fought at the pear tree on the Walserfeld near Wals. Other legends put Charlemagne inside, tended by the dwarf-like Untersberger Mandln, waking every hundred years and sleeping on while the choughs still circle the peak (Charlemagne did hold a synod in Salzburg in 803). There are further legends about the caves, and the Untersberg Wild Hunt has recently been revived.

VISITING

The pin marks the Geiereck, top station of the Untersbergbahn from St Leonhard (Grödig); trails also lead up, and buses run from Salzburg to Grödig and Großgmain.